Mahajan, Jagmohan (ed.);
Ganga Observed: Foreign Accounts of the River
Virgo 1994 / Indica Books, 2004, 152 pages
ISBN 8186569405, 9788186569405
topics: | travel | india | history | ganges
From Intro: Strabo's Geography on Ganga: indeed it is sufficiently agreed that the Ganges is the largest of known rivers on the three continents. Arrian: [All the many rivers of Asia], even if united, would not be fit to be compared in volume of water w the ordinary Indian river, and much less w the greatest of them all, the Ganges. 12
Jean-Baptiste Tavernier, Travels in India (1676) Every day large numbers of Brahmans are to be seen going to the clearest parts of the river to fill round, small-mouthed, earthen pots., which hold abt a bucketful... [The chief priest] directs the mouth to be covered w a very fine cloth of fire-colour, in three or four folds, upon which he applies his seal. The Brahmans carry this water at the end of a stick, flat like a lath, from which hang six cords, each [carrying a pot]. They rest themselves by changing the shoulder frequently, and they sometimes travel three or four hundred leagues of country w this load, and then sell it, or make a present of it, but only to the richest persons, from whom they expect a liberal reward. These idolaters, [at marriages], drink this water at a cost of 400 or 500 ecus. It is drunk only at the end of the repast, as we drink hypocras or muscat in Europe. The principal reason why the water of the Ganges is so highly esteemed, is that it never becomes bad... [At marriages] the chief outlay is on Ganges water, for those who are sometimes 300 or 400 leagues distant from the river. 16 Mark Twain: Following the Equator, 1897 Experiments on Ganges water: Mr. Henkin, govt scientist at Agra, went to Benares and made his tests. He got water out of the mouths of the sewers where they empty into the river at the bathing-ghats; a cubic cm of it contained millions of germs; at the end of six hours they were all dead. He caught a floating corpse, towed it to shore, and fromm beside it dipped up water that was swwarming with cholera germs; at the end of six hours they were all dead. 19
His Majesty calls it 'the water of immortality', and has committed the care of this dept to proper persons. He does not drink much, but pays much attention to the matter. Both at home and on travels he drinks Ganges water. Some trustowrthy persons are stationed on the banks of that river, who dispatch the wwater in sealed jars. When the court was at the capital Agra and Fathpurr, the water came from the district of Sroun, but now that his Majesty is in the Panjab, the water is brought from Hardwar. 20 Francois Bernier, _Travels in the Mogul Empire 1656-1668 (1891) my Navaab has w marked kindness ordered that a new loaf of his household bread, and a sourai of Ganges watter (with which, like every person attached to the court, he has laden several camels) should be presented to me every morning. A sourai is that tin flagon of water, covered with red cloth... 22 [commentary: even the bigoted Aurangzeb drank Ganga water. ]
[Description of the Barid, Postal Service]. The postal service in India is of two kinds. The horse-post, which they call ulaq, consists of horses belonging to the Sultan [with relays] every four miles. The service of couriers of foot has within the space of each mile three relays, which they call dawa, the dawa being a third of a mile, and a mile is called by them kuruh. At every third of a mile there is an inhabited village, outside which there are three pavilions. In these sit men girded up ready to move off, each of whom has a rod two cubits long w copper bells at the top. When a courier leaves the town he takes the letter in the fingers of one hand and the rod with bells in the other, and runs w all his might. The men in the pavilions, on hearing the bells, get ready to meet him and [take the letter] running with all his might and shaking his rod until the next dawa. This post is quicker than the mounted post, and they often use it to transport fruits from Khurasan which are regarded as great luxuries in India, the couriers put them on [woven baskets like] plates and carry them w great speed to the Sultan. [criminals are similarly carried on a stretcher]. Likewise they bring the Sultan's drinking water when he resides at Dawlat Abad, carrying it from the river which is at a distancce of forty days' journey from there. 23 The Ganges [water] is much esteemed for its medicinal properties, and is on this account drank by many Mahommedans. In 1792, Abdul Hakeem, the reigning Nabob of Shahnoor near the west coast of India, although a Mahommedan, never drank any other water. - W. Hamilton, 24 A geographical, statistical, and historical description of Hindustan 1820
Ganga, the river, has caught the imagination of the multitude of foreign visitors to the country through the ages. Travellers of different nationalities and religions visiting India from abroad could not but take note of the Ganga. They have left fascinating accounts of the river scene observed for over two millennia. The information provided by them is vast and varied, and we find detailed and delightful descriptions of customs and ceremonies, periodical fairs and festivals, flora and fauna and picturesque spots and pilgrimage centres which they came across in the course of their travels along the Ganga. Besides exhaustive extracts from the foreign travellers' accounts included in this anthology, the book is also illustrated with some of the fascinating sketches of the river scene made by the landscape artists among them as they went up and down the river.