Jackson, Michael;
Beer (Eyewitness Companions)
Dorling Kindersley Publishers Ltd, 2007, 288 pages
ISBN 1405320281 9781405320283
topics: | beer
Rather brief on history and the chemistry - see Ian Hornsey's magesterial History of Beer and Brewing for those technicalities; this sensuously styled book gives itself exclusively to the enjoyment of beer. With descriptions such as Golden; resiny hops and flowers in the nose; highly carbonated cappuccino-like head; bitter-resiny-dry palate, becoming even drier in the finish. [TRIPEL, by Chimay] one seems to have gone one better than the "nose" of wine tasters. Nearly two-thirds of the book is a paean to the main brands of beer, organized by brewing regions and their leading breweries.
Flemish Reds: reddish-brown brews produced in about 10 towns in Flanders. Their sharpness is daring to the point of being vinegary. These beers usually gain their colour from Vienna malts. Their tartness achieves its thirst-attacking potency during long periods of maturation (sometimes more than two years) in fixed wooden tuns, in which acid-producing bacteria are likely to be resident. The most famous brewery in this style, Rodenbach, has about 200 of these tuns, some containing more than 500 hectolitres (11,000 gallons) in 10 halls – it is perhaps the most unusual brewery in the world. Saisons: These summer seasonal beers were originally the refreshers and restoratives of the farming folk of Hainaut in French-speaking Belgium. After almost vanishing two or three decades ago, they have now become fashionable, and are also being made in other Frenchspeaking provinces and in Flanders. Duvel: after the flemish word for "devil". Duvel’s glasses are engraved inside, which releases more bubbles into the traditional billowing head. 8.5%abv Abbey beers: in Belgium, six Trappist abbeys own breweries, and the products of these establishments do have a family relationship [e.g. Chimay Trappist brewery at The Abbaye de Nôtre Dame de Scourmont - home of Dubbel]. In their early days, they would have each produced dark ales at three different strengths. This approach derived from THE understanding that one batch of grain could be mashed three times, producing a strong ale, an everyday brew, and a small beer. (This custom is reflected in the English pub name "The Three Tuns".) This typical range has been refined over the years, and is now likely to include both pale and dark beers. Often the pale brews are identified as "blonde", and the dark brews will be of middling strength, about 6.5%abv. The strongest brew, the triple will usually be bottle-conditioned, and also by far the most characterful. Many of these beers are made with pale or dark candy sugars that often impart a rummy character, and almost all are topfermenting. Doubles and Triples: running water through the mash-tun three times produces the strongest beer in the first run—around three times as strong as that from the third run, hence the term "triple". Midway comes the "double", from the second run. Before widespread literacy, beer casks were branded with an iron to indicate the potency of the contents. The most common motif was a Christian cross—single, double, or triplicate. Bière brut: new champagne style: introduced in the early 2000s by rival brewers in the small town of Buggenhout, to the northwest of Brussels. The old-established château brewery of the family Bosteels has a bière brut called Deus. The revivalist brewery of the family De Landtsheer has several variations on the theme in its Malheur range. These beers are top-fermented, then bottle-conditioned with Champagne yeast cultures. Many beer-lovers feel that, in their interplay of delicacy and gently fruity, spicy complexity, these brews have more character than most Champagnes.
helles (yellow) lager : hell ~= yellow; 4-4.5% Bock: simply indicates a strong or extra-potent lagered beer. ~ 6.5% doppelbock: eisbock: water freezes before alcohol; so flavour gets stronger. (also eiswein)
the world’s most famous and ubiquitous lager style - after the world’s first bright, golden beer, a style invented 1842 in the city of Plzeň, which is in Bohemia then a province of the Austro-Hungarian Empire. now, with Moravia, it forms the Czech Republic). The golden beer was made possible by a refinement in malting, in which direct heat was replaced by warm air. Its brightness captured the imagination of drinkers at a time when mass-produced glass was replacing stoneware and metal drinking vessels. The pilsner brew was not only bright; it was also delicious, thanks to the quality of barley malt from the Hana region of Moravia and hops from Bohemia’s Žatec, or Saaz region. The Saaz hops imparted an especially fresh, herbal aroma and a firm but elegant finish that defined the style. The original brewery is identified on Czech labels as Plzeňský Prazdroj, and elsewhere by the German Pilsner Urquell. A sister brewery, Gambrinus, makes a similar beer that is a little lighter in body and palate. India, too, has a large and thriving brewing industry, dating back to the early days of the British Empire, when breweries were built to slake the throats of the troops. Kingfisher and Lal Toofan are two of India’s best-known beers. Potential for growth: India alone has a population of more than 1 billion, but consumes less than a litre of beer annually per head. [as opp to 90 lit per head in Belgium, which, as Jackson laments, is way down from 133 l/h in the 1970s]
Introduction 10
Introduction 24 Grain 26 Water 30 Hops, herbs, and spices 31 Yeast 34
Introduction 38 Belgian wild beers 40 Beers made with wheat 42 Some Belgian classics 45 Porters and stouts 48 Ales of the UK and US 50 German ales 53 Lager beers 54
Introduction 60 Beer-hunting 62 Know your beer 64 Beer and food 66
(list of breweries inserted) Introduction 72 Czech Republic 74 Plzeňský Prazdroj ; Bernard ; Budweiser Budvar ; Budweiser Burgerbrau ; Eggenberg ; Gambrinus ; Herold ; Kozel ; Krušovice ; Ostravar ; Pilsner Urquell ; Platan ; Radegast ; Regent ; Staropramen ; U Fleků
Munich and the south 82 Altenmünster ; Andechser ; Apostelbräu ; Auerbräu ; Augustiner ; Ayinger ; Bürgerbräu Bad Reichenhall ; Deil ; Reinheitsgebot ; Wilhelm ; Erdinger Weissbräu ; Fürst Wallerstein ; Griesbräu zu Murnau ; Hofbräuhaus München ; Hofbräuhaus Traunstein ; Kaltenberg ; Löwenbräu ; Aventinus ; Prösslbräu ; Riedenburger ; Riegele ; Schlossbrauerei Herrngiersdorf ; Schlossbrauerei Unterbaar ; Schneider Weisse ; Spaten-Franziskaner ; Thorbräu Thurn und Taxis ; Unertl Mühldorf ; Weltenburger Kloster ; Karlsruhe and the southwest 94 Badische Staatsbrauerei Rothaus ; Bergbrauerei Ulrich Zimmermann ; Binding ; Bischoff ; Engel Bräu ; Fürstenberg ; Grohe ; Hessische Löwenbierbrauerei ; Hirsch Brauerei Honer ; Hoepfner ; Ketterer ; Schnitzer Bräu ; Waldhaus ; Cologne and the northwest 99 Dortmunder Actien Brauerei ; Früh ; Füchschen ; Gaffel ; Hövels ; Pinkus Müller ; Schlösser ; Stefanus ; Uerige ; Hamburg and the north 103 Einbeck ; Asgaard ; Astra ; Einbecker Brauhaus ; Flensburger ; Hütt ; Jever ; Lübzer ; Privatbrauerei Iserlohn ; Rostocker ; Stralsunder Brauerei ; Veltins ; Berlin and the east 107 Apoldaer ; Bayerischer Bahnhof ; Berliner Bürgerbräu ; Berliner weisse ; Berliner-Kindl-Schultheiss-Brauerei ; Braugold ; Bürgerliches Brauhaus Saalfeld ; Feldschlösschen ; Forsthaus Templin ; Hallesches Brauhaus ; Hammer Bräu ; Hasseröder ; Kneipepur ; Köstritzer Schwarzbierbrauerei ; Meissner Schwerter ; Papiermühle ; Radeberger ; Reudnitzer ; Rhön-Brauerei Dittmar ; Rosenbrauerei ; Talschänke ; Ur-Krostitzer ; Wernesgrüner ; Nürnberg and Franconia 115 Bamberg ; Brauerei Michael ; Distelhäuser ; Drei Kronen Memmelsdorf ; Fässla ; Huppendorfer Bier ; Knoblach ; Kulmbacher AG ; Maisel ; Kellerbier ; Schlenkerla ; Schneider – zur Kanne ; Spezial ; St Georgen Bräu ; Staffelberg-Bräu ; Trunk ; Tucher ;
Flanders 122 Achel ; Alvinne ; Anker ; Bavik ; Bosteels ; Cnudde ; Contreras ; De Dolle Brouwers ; De Graal ; De Koninck ; De Ryck ; Deca ; Duvel ; Gaverhopke ; Kerkom ; Malheur ; Pakhuis ; Proef ; Regenboog ; Rodenbach ; Roman ; St Bernardus ; Slaghmuylder ; Strubbe ; Van den Bossche ; Van Eecke ; Verhaeghe ; Westmalle ; Westvleteren ; Liefmans ; Brussels and Brabant province 134 Affligem ; Cantillon ; De Block ; De Cam ; Domus ; Drie Fonteinen ; Haacht ; Lefèbvre ; Lindemans ; Mort Subite ; Oud Beersel ; Palm ; Sint-Pieters/Zenne ; Triest ; Wallonia 139 Abbaye de Rocs ; Achouffe ; Augrenoise ; Binchoise ; Blaugies ; Brootcoorens ; Brunehaut ; Caracole ; Du Bocq ; Caulier ; Cazeau ; Chimay ; De Ranke ; Dubuisson ; Dupont ; Ellezelloise ; Fantôme ; Géants ; Grain d’Orge ; Orval ; Oxymore ; Rochefort ; Rulles ; Silenrieux ; Silly ; Vapeur ;
England 148 Adnams ; Archers ; Badger ; Banks’s ; Batemans ; Bath Ales ; Bathams ; Big Lamp ; Black Sheep ; Brakspear ; Butcombe ; Cains ; Camerons ; Coniston ; Crouch Vale ; Daleside ; Durham ; Elgood’s ; Everards ; Exmoor ; Fuller’s ; Greene King ; Hambleton ; Harveys ; Hawkshead ; Highgate ; Hog’s Back ; Holt ; Hook Norton ; Hop Back ; Hydes ; Jennings ; Kelham Island ; Lees ; Marston’s ; McMullen ; Meantime ; John Smith’s ; Melbourn Brothers ; Moorhouse’s ; Mordue ; Newcastle Federation ; North Yorkshire ; Oakham Ales ; Okells ; O’Hanlon’s ; Palmer’s ; Ringwood ; Robinson’s ; Rooster’s ; Samuel Smith ; Shepherd Neame ; Springhead ; St Austell ; St Peter’s ; Tetley ; Theakston ; Thornbridge ; Thwaites ; Timothy Taylor ; Wadworth ; Wells & Young’s ; Woodforde’s ; Wychwood ; York ; Scotland 168 Belhaven ; Broughton ; Cairngorm ; Caledonian ; Harviestoun ; Inveralmond ; Orkney ; Williams ; Wales 171 Brains ; Felinfoel ; Tomos Watkin ; Republic of Ireland 172 Beamish ; Guinness ; Kinsale ; Murphy’s ; Smithwick’s ;
The Netherlands 176 Budels ; De Bekeerde Suster ; De Hemel ; De Schans ; Grolsch ; Gulpen ; Heineken ; Hertog Jan ; Jopen ; Lindeboom ; Mommeriete ; Sint Christoffel ; Snab ; Texelse ; Eastern Europe 180 Aldaris ; Apatinska Pivara ; Beogradska Industrija Piva ; Bere Romania ; Brau-Union Romania ; Cēsu Alus ; Dreher ; Eldebrewery ; Heineken Hungary ; Kalnapilis ; Karlovačka Pivovara ; Laško ; A. Le Coq, ; Heineken Slovensko ; Okocim ; Saku Õlletehase ; Sun InBev ; Svyturys-Utenos Alus ; Topvar ; Union ; Zagrebačka Pivovara ; Austria 186 1516 Brewing Company ; Edelweiss ; Forstner Biere ; Gösser ; Märzen ; Schloss Eggenberg ; Schwechater ; Stiegl ; Trumer ; Zipfer ; Switzerland 190 Altes Tramdepot ; Biervision Monstein ; Schützengarten ; Sternen ; Turbinenbräu ; Scandinavia 192 Aass ; Ahlafors ; Brøckhouse ; Ceres ; Finlandia Sahti ; Gotlands ; Hansa ; Jacobsen ; Jämtlands ; Krönleins ; Mack’s ; Olvi ; Sinebrychoff AB ; Stadin Panimo Oy ; Thisted ; France 196 Annoeullin ; Bailleux ; Castelain ; Deux-Rivières ; Duyck ; La Choulette ; Ferme-Brasserie Beck ; Fischer ; Gayant ; Lancelot ; Mor Braz ; Pelforth ; St Sylvestre ; Thiriez ; Warenghem ; Grand Duchy of Luxembourg 200 Beierhaascht ; Cornelyshaff ; Simon ; Italy 201 Almond 22 ; Babb ; Barley (Sardinia) ; Beba ; Bi-Du ; Birra del Borgo ; Birrificio Italiano ; Il Birrificio di Como ; Cittavecchia ; Grado Plato ; Lambrate ; Le Baladin ; Montegioco ; Panil (Torrechiara) ; Piccolo Birrificio ; Troll ; Turbacci ; Unionbirrai ; Zahre ; Southern Europe 207 Damm ; Simonds Farsons Cisk ; Sociedad Central de Cervejas
Northeast 210 Allagash ; Berkshire ; Blue Point ; Clipper City ; D. L. Geary ; Dogfish Head ; Flying Fish ; Harpoon ; High Falls ; Iron Hill ; Lion (Pennsylvania) ; Long Trail ; Magic Hat ; Old Dominion ; Ommegang ; Samuel Adams ; Straub Brewery [free beer on "eternal tap"] ; Otter Creek ; Penn ; Saranac ; Shipyard ; Smuttynose ; Southampton ; Stoudt’s Brewing Co. ; Tröegs ; Victory ; Yuengling ; South 221 Abita ; Atlanta ; Boscos ; Carolina ; Dixie ; Highland ; Pete’s ; Real Ale ; Saint Arnold ; Shiner ; Sweetwater Midwest 225 August Schell ; Bell’s ; Boulevard ; Capital ; City Brewery ; Goose Island ; Great Lakes ; Huber ; Lakefront ; Leinenkugel ; Miller ; Olympia ; Pabst ; Rolling Rock ; Schlitz ; New Glarus ; New Holland ; Schlafly ; Sprecher ; Summit ; Three Floyds ; Mountains 232 Avery ; Big Sky ; Boulder Beer ; Breckenridge ; Coors ; Flying Dog ; Four Peaks ; Great Divide Brewing ; Left Hand ; New Belgium ; Uinta ; Utah Brewers ; Wynkoop Pacific Northwest 238 Alaskan ; Bridgeport ; Deschutes ; Elysian ; Fish ; Full Sail ; Hair of the Dog ; Hale’s ; Mac & Jack’s ; McMenamins ; Pike ; Pyramid ; Redhook ; Rogue ; Widmer California and Hawaii 243 Alesmith ; Anchor ; Ballast Point ; Bear Republic ; BJ’s ; Firestone Walker ; Gordon Biersch ; Kona ; Lagunitas ; Lost Coast ; Marin ; Mendocino ; Port/Lost Abbey ; Russian River ; Stone
Canada 252 Amsterdam Brewing Co. ; Big Rock ; Brick Brewing ; Creemore Springs ; Dieu du Ciel ; Le Cheval Blanc ; Fat Cat Brewery ; Ferme Brasserie Schoune ; Granite ; McAuslan ; Moosehead ; Niagara Falls ; Russell ; Spinnakers ; Steamworks ; Unibroue ; Vancouver Island ; Wellington Brewery Caribbean 257 Antigua (Wadadli) ; Carib ; Cuba ; Desnoes and Geddes ; Jamaica Latin America 258 Blumenau ; Antares ; Barbaroja ; Buller Brewing Company ; Cervesur ; Eisenbahn ; Moctezuma
Japan 262 Baird Brewing ; Echigo Beer ; Hakusekikan ; Hitachino Nest ; Isekadoya ; Kinshachi ; Minoh Aji Beer ; Otaru Beer ; Sapporo ; T.Y. Harbor ; Yoho Brewing Other countries of Asia 266 Asia Pacific Breweries ; Boon Rawd ; Hong Kong S.A.R. Brewing Co. ; Lion Brewery (Sri Lanka) ; Multi Bintang Australia 268 Bootleg ; Cascade ; Coopers ; Gage Roads ; Holgate ; Knappstein ; Little Creatures ; Lord Nelson ; Malt Shovel ; Matilda Bay ; Foster’s ; Moo Brew ; Mountain Goat ; Redoak ; Scharer’s ; Wig and Pen New Zealand 272 Dux de Lux ; Emerson’s Brewery ; Galbraith’s Alehouse ; Mac’s ; Monteith’s ; Shakespeare Brewery ; Steam Brewing Company ; Tuatara Brewing Company ; Twisted Hop Africa 276 East African Breweries ; Maroc ; Mitchell’s ; Namibian Breweries ; Nigerian Breweries ; South African Breweries Glossary 280 Index 282 Acknowledgments 287
°BALLING: Measure of fermentable sugars in wort and therefore of potential final alcohol content. Scale devised by Czech brewing scientist Carl Joseph Napoleon Balling. Later refined as °Plato. BOTTOM-FERMENTING: Term describing yeasts of the Saccharomyces carlsbergensis strain that are used to make lager. During lagering (storage) the yeast sinks to the bottom of the brew, producing a clean-tasting beer. GOSE Distinctively salty style of wheat beer native to Leipzig. GRIST Ground malt (or other grains) which, along with warm water, forms the basis of wort. IBU Acronym for International Bitterness Units, a standard scale of measurement for determining the bitterness of beers. IPA India pale ale; a robust, heavily-hopped beer originally made to withstand export by sea to India from Britain. Now also produced in the USA. LAGER Family of bottom-fermented beer styles. Examples range from black beers (such as schwarzbier) to the more familiar golden pilsner. RAUCHBIER A German style of lager made from malt that has been smoked over beechwood fires. A Franconian speciality. SOUR ALES, SOUR BEER Ales originating in Flanders that typically undergo ageing of 18 months to two years in oak tuns, during which they gain a sharply thirst-quenching acetic character. TOP-FERMENTING Descriptive of ale yeasts of the Saccharomyces cerevisiae strain, which produce a thick foam at the top of the fermentation tank. TUN A vessel in which mash is steeped. VIENNA LAGER Bronze-to-red lager with a sweetish malt aroma and flavour. Pioneered by Austrian brewer Anton Dreher. WORT An infusion containing fermentable sugars that is produced by the mashing process. The wort is filtered, boiled, and cooled before yeast is added to initiate the process of fermentation.