Glover, Brian;
Beer: An Illustrated History
Hermes House, 2000, 64 pages
ISBN 1840385979, 9781840385977
topics: | food | drink | beer | history | picture-book
Beer is a compromise. It's not completely wild, but then neither is it fully tame... That's why it is the the world's third most popular drink [w] (after water and tea) - sales of beer are four times that of wine (http://nosco.blogspot.com/2007/04/just-beer.html) In analyses such as the above, what is beer remains a little murky. The OED says: At present 'beer' is in the trade the generic name for all malt liquors, 'ale' being specifically applied to the paler coloured kinds, the malt for which has not been roasted or burnt; but the popular application of the two words varies in different localities. Beer today comes primarily in two varieties, the bottom-fermented lager beer, and the (mostly) top-fermented ale.
The term "malt" in beer refers to a processing whereby starch (from many kinds of cereals) is converted into a sugar-rich variety (the complex carbohydrates are broken down into soluble glucoses) - ultimately it is these sugar monomers that ferment. This can be done with enzymes which can come from a) chewing the grain; human saliva has the enzyme pyalin - mastication was a popular method in ancient times. See the 17th c. image on p. 9 of tribal women in Amazon making beer by chewing and spitting into a vat. b) germinating (sprouting) the grain, when the enzyme diastase is formed. At this point, germination is halted by baking the sprouts in a kiln; this is the process called malting, and the end result is the malt. So Beer can be made from all sorts of starch, even bread! But cereals differ in the amount of diastase that they form while malting; Barley is often preferred because of the high diastatic power of its malt.
Wine doesn't need malting because it is made from fruits which are already rich in simpler sugars (monosaccharides like glucose and disaccharides like sucrose). Traditional fermentation processes tend to produce weaker alcohols, (beer: 5% wine: 10%). Stronger alcohol, produced by distillation, (mentioned in Aristotle) are spirits - rum, vodka, whisky are variants based on ingredients and geo-cultural origin. Wine can form when fruit on the ground is fermented by natural yeast - when this happens, animals are specially attracted to it. Thus, wine may have arisen naturally, and its antecedents go too far into antiquity to be traceable. Certainly it is much older than beer in the archaeological record. On the other hand, beer needs more processing. Though beer can arise naturally from germinated cereal that is dried in the sun etc, this is less common.
Zambian woman making beer outside her home. It will be poured out into the calabashes. p. 42 In primitive societies and in earlier times, women used to spend considerable time making the brew for home consumption, and the better ones were often sold for income. Eventually some of these places became ale-houses run by alewifes (Etymology: "ale-wife" was a woman who kept an ale-house though it might also refer to the fat tummy of a barrel (see http://www.etymonline.com/index.php?term=ale). In Chaucer, we find that "alestake" was the sign posted outside an alehouse. "eala-huse": the Old English (c.450-1100) word for ale-house. From a page in an 1898 dictionary of Old English, by Joseph Bosworth and T. Northcote Toller.
But beer is much older than that. Wine is much older than beer, In the neolithic settlement of Hajji Firuz Tepe (in the Zagros mountains of N. Iran), there are vessels dating to 5000 BCE with traces that appear to be wine. Within a thousand years, at Godin Tepe in western Iran, we find high traces of oxalate ion[1] in the grooves of a ceramic shard which may have been a vessel for fermenting or transporting drinks [1]. Oxalates (possibly calcium oxalate) are consistent with beer. Beer drinking was known in Egypt from the 5th millenium (see Ian Hornsey's A History of Beer and Brewing (2003). Much evidence of a beer drinking culture have also been found in Mesopotamia. The king of Ur raising glasses with his nobles at a banquet (p.8) At the Sumerian city of Lagash (near Basra in Southern Iraq, may have been on the Euphrates or the the Shat-al-Arab in 4000BCE) a complete brewery has been excavated dating to around 2500 BCE. The brewery included tanks for the making of beer-bread (bappir), a mixture of dough and aromatic herbs, and a large oven in which, according to the hymns to the beer-goddess Ninkasi, the beer bread would have been baked. [2] Another shard from a pottery jar contains the Sumerian cuneiform signs for "beer" and "jar". Sumerian cylinder seals also depict beer drinking at banquets and during sexual intercourse [2]. In much of the ancient civilization, beer was such a sought after drink that there is considerable surmise that the main impetus behind the rise of agriculture around the tenth millennium BCE may have come from the need to grow grains for beer. Also, the idea of baking is closely tied to the kilning process by which germination was halted in malting; indeed, that the first breads were baked for beer. Such is the preponderance of beer, that there is a strong argument that the transition from nomadic life to agriculture may have arisen because of beer. The impetus for early grain cultivation may have come from the need to have a stable source of beer; eventually groups of people settled down around the land. from notes: [1] Homan, M.M., 2004, Beer and its drinkers: A ancient near eastern love siory Near Eastern archaeology, 2004, v. 67(2), p, 84-95: Some have even argued that it was humanity's thirst for beer rather than a hunger for bread that motivated the domestication of cereals ca. 9500-8000 BCE. [2] RL Zettler and NF Miller, 1995, Searching for Wine in the archaeological record of ancient Mesopotamia in the Third and Second Millenia BC, in McGovern, PE and Mitchel, RH (ed.), The analytical and archaeological challenge of detecting ancient wine, Gordon & Breach 1995.
In ancient cultures, beer was a perishable, and hops was first added to preserve it, possibly around the 9th c. Monasteries were where the stuff was traditionally brewed, it helped communion with God perhaps... In the 16th c. some Bavarian monks trying to store beer longer were fermenting it in a cool cellar, and they observed that the yeast, instead of frothing at the top and promoting bacteria, were fermenting at the bottom. This was the birth of the bottom-fermented beer, used in all beers today, and the process came to be called lagering, (Etymology: lagern is german for storing). But beer remained muddy for three more centuries, while its production was being rapidly mechanized along with everything else - one of Watt's first steam engines was used to mash the malt. In the mid-19th c., at a brewery in the Czech town of Pilsen, the beer turned out clear and golden - possibly by accident helped by the fact that the local water was very soft, and the barley was lower in proteins. In any event, this coincided with the mass-production of glass which made the clean look of the Pilsner beer a sensation, spreading Pils style lager around the globe. Until recently the Pilsner Urquell brewery used to make their beer the old-fashioned way, in large open vats in the cellar. --- For more on the American history of yeast, see http://www.beerhistory.com/library/holdings/busch.shtml This large format colourful book is a quick and delightful read, especially on a summer evening on the balcony with a glass of the iciest. This book is a condensed version of the larger volume, The world encyclopedia of beer, also by Glover.